1.  Cut off the inner cable end.  If your cable came assembled, you have to cut off the end you do NOT plan to use.  Sharp wire cutters work ok, but real bicycle cable cutters work better.  Be careful not to fray the cable.  Then remove the inner cable.  Discard the aluminum cable end button if not needed.
2.  Cut the cable housing to length.  Use the old cables as a template.  Cut your new housing the same length as the old housing.  Sharp wire cutters work ok for standard flat wound housing.  Make sure your cut is clean by looking at the end of the cable.  But, if you are cutting SIS cable, use SIS cable cutters or a dremel with a cutoff tool. If you had your bicycle shop cut them for you, then go to the next step.  If you have to cut them to the proper length then double check that they will be long enough (move handlebars and/or suspension systems to check for binding, etc.) so that nothing binds. 

3.  Put on the cable ferrules.  Put on the right type for the application.  4mm plastic fits 4mm SIS cable.  5mm SIS fits 5mm SIS or compressionless cable.  And 5mm thin plated brass fits standard cables - brake or shifter flat wound cables.  Do not use the thin plated brass ferrules for SIS cables.  To tell the difference, the thin brass ferrules will deform if squeezed with your fingers.  It is much more difficult to crush the SIS ferrules with your fingers.  If you look closely at the end of the SIS ferrule with the small hole, you can see that the metal is very thick compared to non-SIS ferrules.  You can get away with not using ferrules on standard flat wound cable for some brake or shifter applications, but they make the installation look professional.
4a.  Lube the inner cable.  I like to put a little Teflon grease on my fingers and apply it to the inner cable.  Some people use White Lightning, while others say to use nothing.  Shimano lubricates some of their SIS cables - usually the last one going to the rear derailleur.  V-Brake noodles must also be lubricated.  The lubrication helps the cable slide and it keeps the cable from rusting or corroding in damp weather. 
4b.  Thread the cable.  Start at the brake lever or shifter.  Assemble the pieces as you go.  Finally pull the cable taught with your hand and tighten the cable anchor bolt.  In practice this step is usually more complicated than it sounds.  Brake cables are the easiest.  Usually you do not have to disassemble anything to insert the cable end into the brake lever.  On some brakes (especially V-Brakes) don't pull the cable too tight.  Shifters are another story.  On some shifters, you'll have to look up disassembly instructions.  There are way too many for me to list here.  If you still have the bicycle's owner’s manual, shifter disassembly and cable installation might be listed.  Some grip shifters just pull apart, on others you have to remove screws.  Shifter disassembly keeps getting more complicated as time goes on.

5.  Put on a fray cap.  Cut off the excess cable but leave about 2 inches after the anchor bolt.  Crimp on a fray cap with pliers to keep the cable from fraying.  It is a safety device too.  It keeps the needle sharp strands of cable from sticking you.

6.  Adjust the cable.  Most brakes/shifters/derailleurs have some way to take up the cable slack.  Usually a barrel adjuster located on the levers, brakes, or derailleurs.  Adjust per manufacture's instructions so everything works properly.

7.  Test ride the bicycle.  Just to confirm everything works properly.  Check for cable stretch (inner cables really don't stretch - the cable housing compresses). 

8.  Installation Pictures.

Installation Pictures.  Back to Cable Selection
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